What to Look for at an Open Home: A Buyer's Guide

An open home is not a social visit. It is your first and often only unaccompanied opportunity to assess a property before you spend hundreds of thousands — or millions — of dollars committing to it. Most buyers spend fifteen to twenty minutes walking through a property, admiring the kitchen renovation or the leafy backyard, and leave without looking at the things that actually determine whether the building is sound.

This guide tells you exactly what to look at, room by room and outside in, so that every open home you attend gives you real information. It also explains where your own assessment ends and where a licensed building and pest inspector must take over.

Why What You See at an Open Home Matters

Research by Australian building inspection companies consistently shows that a significant proportion of residential properties — including newly built homes — carry defects that affect liveability, safety, or value. A 2024 industry survey indicated that close to 70 per cent of newly built Australian homes show major defects. For established properties, the proportion with at least one maintenance or structural issue is higher still.

The purpose of your open home walkthrough is not to replace a professional inspection — it cannot do that. The purpose is to gather enough information to decide whether a property is worth the cost of commissioning a full building and pest inspection, and to identify the specific concerns you want the inspector to focus on. A well-trained eye at an open home can spot warning signs in minutes that save you the heartache of falling in love with a structurally compromised property.

Outside the Property

Before you even walk through the front door, spend five minutes outside. Stand back from the street and look at the building as a whole. Then work your way around the perimeter.

The building line and foundations

Look at the roofline from the street. It should be straight. A sagging, bowed, or uneven roofline suggests structural movement or frame failure. Check the external walls: are they plumb (vertical)? A wall that leans inward or outward is a serious concern. Look at the base of the walls and foundations for diagonal cracks — a crack wider than approximately 2mm running at 45 degrees from a corner is a common indicator of foundation movement or subsidence, particularly in clay-heavy soils common across Melbourne, Adelaide, and Brisbane.

Drainage and site fall

Water should drain away from the building, not towards it. Look at how the garden and driveway are graded. If the ground slopes towards the house, water will pool against the foundations after rain. Check for signs of previous ponding: patches of dead or yellowed grass near the building line, soil subsidence, or efflorescence (white chalky deposits) on brickwork at ground level. These are signs of long-term moisture against the structure.

Gutters, downpipes, and eaves

Walk the perimeter and look up. Gutters that sag, separate from the fascia board, or show rust staining running down the wall indicate blocked or broken drainage. Rust stains on external walls below a downpipe suggest the downpipe is cracked or discharging against the wall. Check the eaves for paint that is peeling, blistering, or showing dark staining — these indicate moisture penetrating from above.

Decks, balconies, and retaining walls

The Victorian Building Authority has specifically highlighted balconies and decks as a maintenance risk. Look for timber posts that are soft at the base (a common sign of rot and termite ingress), balustrade fixings that appear loose or corroded, and deck boards that bounce or flex underfoot. Retaining walls that lean, crack, or show gaps between sections may indicate soil movement or inadequate footings.

Inside Room by Room

Work through the property methodically. Carry your phone to photograph anything that concerns you. Open every door and window — sticking or binding doors and windows are one of the most reliable indicators of structural movement or moisture-swollen timber.

All rooms: walls, ceilings, and floors

Look at walls and ceilings for cracks. Not all cracks are structural — hairline cracks in plasterboard or render at corners are common from normal seasonal movement. The cracks that matter are those that are wide (more than 1–2mm), diagonal, or step through brick mortar joints. Also watch for cracks that have been filled and repainted: look for slightly different paint sheen or colour over a filled area. Sellers sometimes patch cracks to conceal ongoing movement.

Walk every room and feel for soft spots, bounce, or unevenness in floors. Timber floors that spring underfoot near corners or along walls may have moisture damage or termite activity in the subfloor framing below. Check that floor coverings meet walls cleanly — gaps at the junction between skirting boards and floor can indicate movement.

Kitchen

Open under-sink cupboards and look at the plumbing connections and the base of the cabinet. Staining, swollen particle board, or a damp smell indicates a slow leak, which may have been present for months. Turn on the taps — water pressure should be firm and consistent. Check the wall and ceiling above and beside the rangehood for grease staining or dark discolouration that suggests inadequate ventilation.

Bathrooms and ensuite

Wet areas are the most common source of serious water damage in Australian homes. Look at the grout lines on wall and floor tiles: cracked, missing, or dark-stained grout allows moisture to penetrate behind tiles. Tap the tiles — a hollow sound (a dull thud rather than a firm click) indicates the tile has debonded from the substrate, suggesting waterproofing failure behind it. Check the silicone seal around the bath, shower base, and vanity for cracking or mould penetration. Look at the wall below and beside the shower for any bubbling paint, soft plaster, or staining. Check the ceiling directly above — water stains on the ceiling of a ground-floor bathroom can indicate a leak from a bathroom or laundry on the floor above.

Laundry

Check behind or beside the washing machine connection point for signs of slow water discharge onto the floor. Look at the base of the walls for moisture, mould, or paint deterioration. Laundries are a common moisture source that buyers overlook because the room is functional rather than aesthetic.

Bedrooms

Check windows open and close easily and that window locks function. Look at the ceiling corners for water staining — this is often the first place a roof leak or overflowing gutter manifests inside. Open built-in wardrobe doors and check the rear wall and floor for mould, which can indicate inadequate ventilation or an external wall with a moisture problem on the other side.

Living areas

Look at the ceiling for any patched areas — discolouration over a patched spot, or a slight dome in the plaster, can indicate a past leak that has been cosmetically repaired without addressing the source. Check cornices for hairline cracks or separation from the ceiling — this can indicate frame movement.

The Roof and Roof Space

You will not be climbing onto the roof at an open home, and you should not attempt to do so. However, you can observe a great deal from ground level and from inside the roof space if access is available.

From the outside

Use the zoom on your phone camera to inspect the roof surface from the street or from the backyard. For tiled roofs, look for cracked, slipped, or missing tiles. Ridge capping (the mortar-bedded tiles along the apex of the roof) should be continuous with no gaps or displaced sections — failed ridge capping is one of the most common sources of roof leaks. For metal roofs, look for corrosion, lifted panels, or gaps at the ridge. Check the valley flashings (the metal channels where two roof planes meet) for corrosion or visible gaps. Around any chimney, skylight, or pipe penetration, the flashing should be sealed and rust-free.

From inside the roof space

If the manhole cover is accessible and the agent permits it (always ask first), a brief look into the roof space is worthwhile. You are looking for: water staining on the underside of the roof battens or sarking (the foil or paper layer beneath the tiles); daylight visible through the roof covering; insulation that is damaged, missing, or displaced; timber framing that appears cracked, sagging, or has been cut through for building services; and any mud tubes or workings on the timber frame, which indicate termite activity.

Signs of Water Damage and Dampness

Water damage is the most common serious defect category in Australian residential property. It can originate from a failing roof, blocked gutters, inadequate waterproofing in wet areas, burst or leaking pipes, rising damp through poorly ventilated subfloors, or inadequate site drainage. The following signs are reliable indicators that moisture is present or has been present.

Visible indicators

• Ceiling stains: Yellow, brown, or grey discolouration on ceilings, particularly in rings or spreading patches, indicates water has penetrated from above. The stain may be old and dry or currently active.
• Bubbling, peeling, or blistering paint: Paint that lifts from the surface beneath it is being pushed by moisture. This is particularly concerning on lower sections of external walls and on internal walls adjacent to wet areas.
• Swollen skirting boards or floor coverings: Timber and engineered timber swell when they absorb moisture. Skirting boards that bulge away from the wall, or floor boards that cup or bow, indicate sustained moisture exposure.
• Efflorescence: White, chalky mineral deposits on brickwork or render occur when water moves through masonry, dissolving salts and depositing them on the surface as it evaporates. This is particularly common on subfloor ventilation bricks and at the base of external walls.
• Mould growth: Visible mould in bathrooms, laundries, or on external-facing walls — and particularly inside built-in wardrobes — indicates persistent moisture that ventilation alone has not resolved.

Signs of Termite Activity

Termites are responsible for more structural damage to Australian homes than fire, flood, and storm combined — and standard home insurance does not cover termite damage. The Australian Environmental Pest Managers Association estimates that 1 in 4 Australian homes shows signs of termite activity. Average remediation costs range from $7,000 to $30,000, not including structural repairs to damaged timbers.

The following signs are visible to a layperson and warrant immediate attention:

What to look for

• Mud tubes: The most definitive visible sign. Termites construct small, tunnel-like tubes from mud and digested timber to protect themselves as they travel between their colony and a food source. Look for these on external foundations, internal subfloor walls, around service pipes, and at the base of internal wall cavities near electrical outlets and skirting boards.
• Hollow-sounding timber: Termites eat timber from the inside out, leaving only a thin shell. Tap skirting boards, door frames, timber floors, and architraves with a screwdriver handle or your knuckle. A sound piece of timber produces a firm, dense tap. Termite-damaged timber produces a hollow, papery sound.
• Blistered or bubbling paint on timber surfaces: This mimics the appearance of water damage. Termite activity beneath painted timber surfaces creates irregular blisters. If you see blistered paint on what you expect to be a sound internal wall or skirting, and there is no obvious moisture source, termite activity is a possibility.
• Sticking or tight-fitting doors and windows: As termites eat through the timber frame around a door or window, the structural integrity changes and the opening distorts slightly. A door that has recently become difficult to open or close without an obvious reason warrants investigation.
• Soft spots or bounce in timber floors: Walk slowly across timber floors, particularly in corners and near plumbing penetrations. Floors that feel soft, spongy, or that flex more than expected may have damaged subfloor joists or bearers below.
• Fine mud or frass deposits: A fine, sandy or muddy deposit near cracks in timber or along skirting board edges can indicate termites filling their workings with material as they progress.

Also inspect the immediate surrounds: look at garden beds, timber sleepers, wood stacks, tree stumps, and fencing within approximately 50 metres of the building. The Victorian Building Authority advises that active termite colonies can be present in surrounding vegetation and should be considered part of any property assessment.

Older vs Newer Homes: Different Things to Watch For

The age of a property significantly changes the risk profile of what you might find. Older and newer homes each carry distinct categories of concern.

Homes built before 1987

Asbestos-containing materials (ACMs) were commonly used in Australian residential construction prior to the mid-to-late 1980s. According to Asbestos Awareness Australia, homes built before 1987 are "highly likely" to contain asbestos, and homes built between 1987 and 1990 are "likely" to contain some ACMs. Asbestos was used in fibro sheeting (flat and corrugated), roofing shingles, guttering, flue pipes, water drainage pipes, and as backing for vinyl floor coverings.

You cannot identify asbestos by sight — it requires laboratory testing by an accredited assessor. However, you should note any fibro cladding, corrugated sheeting on fences, laundry or garage walls, or textured ceilings in a pre-1990 home, and flag these for professional assessment. Importantly, asbestos that is in good condition and undisturbed does not present an immediate risk — but it affects renovation plans and resale disclosure obligations.

Homes built before the mid-1980s may also contain lead-based paint. Deteriorating or flaking paint in older homes, particularly in high-contact areas, should be tested before any renovation work is undertaken.

Additional concerns in older homes include: outdated electrical wiring (pre-1990 homes may lack safety switches/RCDs on all circuits); single-skin brick construction without a damp-proof course (rising damp is more common); original cast-iron or earthenware drainage that may be cracked or root-invaded; and subfloor stumps in older timber-framed homes that may be deteriorating.

Homes built after 2000

Newer homes are not defect-free. Industry data consistently shows a high rate of defects in recently constructed Australian homes. The most common categories are: waterproofing failures in wet areas (bathrooms, balconies, and roof decks); cracking from inadequate curing or reactive soil movement; plumbing and drainage issues from non-compliant installation; and fire safety non-compliance (missing or expired smoke alarms, non-compliant fire doors in multi-dwelling buildings).

For homes built after 2003, asbestos in original materials is extremely unlikely — Australia's national ban on the manufacture and use of all asbestos products took effect on 31 December 2003. However, illegal importation of asbestos-containing products has been identified in some building materials, particularly certain fibre cement and insulation products. A building inspector can flag any suspicious materials for testing.

What a Layperson Cannot Assess

Being thorough at an open home is valuable, but it is essential to understand the limits of what you can determine without specialist equipment, training, and access.

A licensed building inspector conducting an inspection under Australian Standard AS 4349.1 — Pre-purchase Inspections of Residential Buildings — uses moisture meters to detect moisture content within walls, floors, and ceilings without opening them up. They use thermal imaging cameras to identify temperature differentials caused by missing insulation, hidden moisture, or electrical faults. They inspect subfloor spaces, roof voids, and areas that are inaccessible or unsafe for an untrained person to enter. They assess structural elements including footings, frame integrity, and drainage systems against the National Construction Code requirements.

A licensed pest inspector conducting a timber pest inspection under AS 4349.3 uses a range of detection methods — including thermal imaging, moisture detection, acoustic devices, and physical probing — to find termite activity and environmental conditions conducive to pest attack in locations you would never see at an open home.

The following issues are beyond the scope of an open home assessment:

• Moisture levels within walls, floors, and ceilings (requires a moisture meter)
• Structural integrity of footings and subfloor framing
• Termite activity inside wall cavities or roof framing
• Compliance of electrical wiring and switchboard with current standards
• Condition of stormwater and sewer drainage lines
• Presence of asbestos-containing materials (requires laboratory testing)
• Condition of waterproofing membranes behind tiles
• Any area that is obscured by furniture, stored goods, or fixed fittings

None of these limitations mean your open home assessment is pointless — far from it. A well-conducted walkthrough can identify enough warning signs to make the inspector's job more targeted and ensure you ask the right questions. But it is a professional building and pest inspection, not an open home visit, that gives you the legal and financial protection you need before committing to purchase.

Questions to Ask the Agent

Agents in Australia are bound by fair trading and consumer protection laws that prohibit misrepresentation and, in many states, require disclosure of material facts. In New South Wales, agents must disclose prescribed material facts they know or ought reasonably to know. In Victoria, a Vendor Statement (Section 32) must be served before signing. In Queensland, from August 2025, expanded seller disclosure requirements cover environmental risk, building defects, and water service details.

These are the questions worth asking at every open home:

Related Resources

An open home walkthrough is the first step in a thorough due diligence process. The following resources will help you complete the picture before you commit to a purchase.

• Building and Pest Inspection Guide — Everything you need to know about booking, what it covers, how much it costs in each state, and how to use the report to negotiate.
• Open Home Inspection Checklist — A printable checklist you can take to every property.
• Property Due Diligence Checklist — The full pre-purchase checklist covering legal, financial, and physical due diligence.
• Inspection Planner — Use the Realestate Lens Inspection Planner to schedule and track multiple open homes, record notes and photos for each property, and manage your building inspection bookings in one place.

This guide is for general information only. Always engage a licensed building and pest inspector before committing to purchase. A visual assessment at an open home cannot replace a professional inspection conducted in accordance with Australian Standards AS 4349.1 and AS 4349.3.